The Kicks You Wear, Vol. 380 — New regime bringing back old problems 🧐
The Kicks You Wear, Vol. 380 — New regime bringing back old problems 🧐
Tom Sachs is back at Nike.
Goooood morning, friends! Welcome back to the Kicks You Wear. Thank you for rocking with me today. Appreciate you.
Hope you all are well! Got any good plans this weekend? Yerboi is doing another 5k. The running bug definitely has me something serious. Should be a good time on Saturday. Wish me luck.
Let’s rock.
Tom Sachs is back
Tom Sachs is back in the saddle at Nike. The formerly-estranged artist’s collaborative partnership with the brand is set to resume in 2025, according to the latest from Complex’s Brendan Dunne.
The background: Sachs was under fire last year after a story was published at Curbed describing the intentionally cultish and toxic workplace he fostered at his studio.
He regularly berated employees verbally and threw objects at them when angry. He once reportedly threw a typewriter through a wall and hit an employee.
He regularly spoke with vulgarity to women at his studio, allegedly discussing porn and the sort of women he likes. He also allegedly had a room in his basement called the “rape room” that was meant to be a joke.
He also had a swastika taped over a first-aid kit in his office as part of a stunt to “subvert and reclaim” the most painful part of his Jewish history, according to Sachs himself.
There was also the whole thing about the “Work like a slave” quote that Complex reported was slated to be on the Mars Yard 2.0.
Nike said it was no longer working with Sachs after Curbed and Complex’s stories were published for obvious reasons. But the company didn’t say the two sides would never work together again.
So I guess it’s all good now?
What they’re saying: Nike is, apparently, comfortable working with Sachs again. He’s a changed man. Born again.
The brand released a statement announcing the partnership was back on. Was that demonstrated in any way? Nah. No worries. We’ve got Nike’s word.
“Tom has demonstrated and recommitted to fostering a culture of respect and inclusivity. We can confirm that our work with Tom will continue and this next chapter of NikeCraft will uphold our shared passion for team, product, and storytelling excellence. More details to come in 2025.”
Sachs also announced that Mars Yard 3.0 is coming in 2025 and is currently being wear-tested. They’ve already got projects planned for us, folks! You can’t make this up.
My take: Nike is in a space where it could use all the talent it can get. There’s no doubt that Sachs is talented. He’s a fantastic creator and artist.
But, boy, does this feel gross.
Considering everything in the background, it’s hard to imagine a scenario where this won’t make some Nike folks uncomfortable. It also makes you wonder how the Hill regime will handle any improper workplace behavior. Will that matter as much? Considering how forgiving the brand is to Sachs here, it's a fair question.
Considering the toxic workplace issues previously present under Mark Parker, with whom Hill worked closely, it's especially worrisome.
The reality: Most people probably won’t bat an eye about this news.
The homie Sockjig made an astute point here. Nike felt comfortable sticking with Sachs because, technically, he wasn’t in any legal trouble despite his horrific actions. He makes shoes people like, and nobody really knows who he is.
There’s barely any difference between Sachs here and the Kanye West situation at Adidas. Kanye’s just more famous, so it’s harder to stick by the asshole everybody knows.
The only people who know Tom Sachs are art wonks and sneakerheads. Some will care. Most won’t — they’ll just want the shoes.
What a shame.
Off-White is on the move
In more somber news this week, LVMH sold Off-White LLC to Bluestar Alliance. The two companies announced the sale on Monday, Virgil Abloh’s birthday.
The background: LVMH — the luxury goods company that owns brands like Christian Dior and Louis Vuitton — bought 60 percent of Off-White LLC from Virgil Abloh in July of 2021 just months before he died. That’s the parent company of the Off-Whtie brand.
That’s what’s being sold off to Bluestar Alliance.
Bluestar is a management company that owns a handful of brands that are mostly dabbling in fashion.
The names include Hurley, bebe, Limited too, Tahari, English Laundry and more.
While it’s not the same sort of luxury company as LVMH, Off-White should be a solid fit in the Bluestar portfolio.
But, folks, isn’t this kind of sad?
The state of play: LVMH isn’t selling Off-White because Bluestar is a better fit. It’s selling the brand because LVMH is struggling. The brand’s profits have dropped and selling Off-White will help it recoup.
The brand that meant so much to sneaker culture has been reduced to a convoluted cash grab.
It’s split between so many hands right now. Bluestar owns Off-White LLC, but the brand is still licensed by New Guards Group, which Farfetch owns.
Farfetch was sold earlier this year to South Korean-based business Coupang Inc. So, I guess Coupang technically holds the Off-White license now?
It’s almost like vultures are constantly picking the brand apart. Let’s not forget that Abloh’s wife, Shannon, isn’t involved in these decisions. She owns Virgil Abloh Securities, which is a completely separate entity.
The big picture: Virgil sold Off-White to LVMH to create generational wealth for his family. They’re set for life. That’s real.
But seeing his most iconic creation be bounced around like this doesn’t sit right with me. Off-White deserves better.
A shoe that grows with you
One of the most innovative sneakers you’ll see in 2024 isn’t being brought to you by one of the major footwear brands you’re used to buying from.
It’s coming from Target.
What’s happening: Pensole Lewis College founder Dr. D’Wayne Edwards partnered with Target to launch an exclusive sneaker that grows with the wearer.
The shoe is called Ünos by Sz.
A look: Here’s a look at the model via Footwear News.
The name “Ünos” is an acronym for “U Need One Size,” FN’s Peter Verry writes, and SZ is pronounced “size.”
How it works: The z-shape that splits the sole allows the shoe to expand with the wearer’s foot. They’re designed to expand up to a half size for kids pairs and a full size for adults.
The sizes for the shoe range from 1 to 8 for both adults and kids. A size 1 for an adult starts at a men’s 3 or women’s five and ends at size 8, which would be a men’s 15 or women’s 16.5. For kids, a size 1 is an 8.5C and goes up to a 3Y for a size 8.
That’s a big deal: This is huge for kids and teens, considering how quickly they can grow out of new shoes. It isn’t perfect, considering adult sizes can only expand a full size. But it’ll certainly buy some parents more time to get that next pair of kicks for their kids. Saving money is always great.
Beyond that, this is a fantastic shoe for adults, too. As you get older, your feet usually expand by a half size or so. It can be more depending on the individual. A shoe like this makes it easier to account for that, too.
This might not be the most stylish shoe in the world, but this is awesome as far as function goes.
Nobody wants Yeezys anymore
Guys. This is not a drill. Pairs of Yeezys in Adidas outlets are being sold for $40 or less.
What you’re watching: The above video from @laced_heat on Instagram was captured at a Niagra Falls, NY Adidas outlet. Pairs of the Yeezy Quantum and the 700 MNVN are selling at deeply, deeply discounted rates.
Two notes: Neither of these are the most popular pairs of Yeezys. Plus, this isn’t happening at every Adidas outlet — I just spent some time in a local outlet in Maryland a couple of days ago and there wasn’t a Yeezy in sight.
But this shows you how desperate Adidas is to move off these leftover pairs of Yeezys. The brand is essentially just giving these away.
Makes you wonder if Adidas should’ve just destroyed the pairs instead of going through all this.
#TheKicksWeWear
Y’ALL KNOW WHAT TIME IT IS!!!! LET’S GET IT!!!
First, the homie Jay kicked us off with the Birk and the entire fit. This is so smooth. Back home we like to call it smoove.
The homie Jackson came through with the Crushed x Nike SB Dunks. LOVE these joints. One of my favorite shoes.
My guy Sumeet came through with the Stussy Spiridon Cage 2s. These are beautiful, man. I might have to put in a lil bid myself.
The homie Doe came through with the ALD 650s. Too clean bruh. Wow.
The homie Rick Dubb came through with an absolute classic. AJ 17s, man. These are fantastic.
Speaking of classics, the homie 2Blessed sent us home in the OG Air Diamond Turfs. CLASSICS. The 49ers way. Gotta love it, man.
Y’all SMOKED that. Good stuff, gang.
That’s a wrap, folks! Thanks so much for rocking with me today. Appreciate your time. Have a fantastic weekend.
If you have any questions, comments or concerns, hit me at mikedsykes@gmail.com or shoot me a message here on Substack.
Until next time. Peace and love. Be safe, be easy, be kind. We out.
-Sykes 💯